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Title: Emulsion compositions
United States Patent: 7,416,735
Issued: August 26, 2008
Inventors: El-Nokaly; Magda
(Cincinnati, OH), Vatter; Michael Lee (Okeana, OH)
Assignee: The Procter &
Gamble Company (Cincinnati, OH)
Appl. No.: 10/402,556
Filed: March 28, 2003
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Executive MBA in Pharmaceutical Management, U. Colorado
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Abstract
The present invention relates to particle
stabilizing compositions suitable for use in fabric care products, home
care products, diapers, incontinence articles, feminine care products,
pharmaceuticals, oral care products, antiperspirants, deodorants, personal
cleansing products, skin care products and hair care products comprising:
a) an emulsion comprising from about 1% to about 99% by weight of the
emulsion of an internal phase and from about 1% to about 99% by weight of
the emulsion of an external phase; b) a charged species that is present in
the emulsion; and c) charged insoluble solid particles which are dispersed
in the emulsion wherein the charged species possesses a charge which is
opposed to that of the charged insoluble solid particles and wherein
essentially all of the charged species and charged insoluble solid
particles accumulate at the interface of the emulsion and wherein Brownian
motion is not exhibited by the charged insoluble solid particles.
Description of the
Invention
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a particle stabilizing composition
comprising: a) an emulsion, comprising from about 1% to about 99%, by weight
of the emulsion, of an internal phase and from about 1% to about 99%, by
weight of the emulsion, of an external phase; b) a charged species that is
present in the emulsion; and c) charged insoluble solid particles which are
dispersed in said emulsion; wherein the charged species possesses a charge
which is opposed to that of the charged insoluble solid particles and
wherein essentially all of the charged species and charged insoluble solid
particles accumulate at the interface of the emulsion and wherein Brownian
motion is not exhibited by the charged insoluble solid particles.
In addition to the charged species and particles within the present
invention, the composition may also comprise additional charged or even
uncharged particulate material dispersed in the emulsion.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions, particularly cosmetic
compositions which provide a natural appearance to the substrate to which it
is applied (e.g., hair, skin, and/or nails), and especially foundation
compositions. In particular, the cosmetic compositions of the present
invention are formulated such that agglomeration of an insoluble solid
particle in the product and on the skin is minimized. In cosmetic
compositions, the insoluble solid particle of the present invention may be a
pigment. Using the present invention in foundations, the pigment has a
significantly reduced tendency to collect in the fine lines or wrinkles (or
otherwise agglomerate on the skin), a cakey appearance is avoided and the
skin has a natural appearance. Without being bound or limited by theory, it
is believed that as a result of minimizing agglomeration of the pigment, the
pigment is uniformly distributed throughout the product and that, upon
application to the skin, the pigment in the composition is uniformly
deposited on the skin as perceived by the eye. In any event, the
distribution of the pigment and/or its appearance on the skin becomes
substantially independent of skin topography.
As used herein, the term "cosmetic compositions" refers to compositions for
application to the hair, nails and/or skin, especially the face, which
contain at least about 0.01% and up to about 50% of pigment as hereinafter
defined. Cosmetic compositions include, but are not limited to, foundations,
blush, mascara, eyeshadow, eyeliner, lipstick, nail polish and tinted
moisturizers. The invention described herein is particularly suited for
foundation compositions. As used herein, the term "foundation" refers to a
liquid, solid or semi-solid facial skin cosmetic composition which includes,
but is not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, serums, compacts, sticks and
pastes all of which may or may not be applied using an applicator,
substrate, sponge, a combination thereof or a similar means or some type of
mechanical delivery such as air brush, electrostatic spray, a combination
thereof or a similar means.
The benefits of the present invention are most apparent for liquid
foundations and solid compact emulsion foundations. As used herein, "liquid
foundations" refers to liquid or cream type foundation products which may
range from thin liquids which are pourable (i.e., from a bottle) to viscous
gels or creams which are often packaged in jars, tubes or pump-type
dispensers. Liquid foundations typically have viscosities in the ranges of
from about 10 to about 10,000 centipoise measured at a shear rate of 100
1/s. Viscosity can be measured using a typical rotational viscometer such as
a Haake RS100 with 35/1 degree cone and plate geometry or the equivalent
thereof. The viscosity is determined on the composition after the
composition has been allowed to stabilize following its preparation,
generally at least 24 hours under the conditions of 25.degree.
C..+-.1.degree. C. and an ambient pressure and is measured with the
composition at a temperature of 25.degree. C..+-.1.degree. C., after 30
seconds rotation. Liquid foundations are typically applied to the skin by
finger.
As used herein, "solid compact emulsion foundations" means foundations
compositions which are made from an emulsion which is gelled to a solid or
semi-solid state, for example, by a solid wax-like network, liquid crystals,
polymers, surfactant/polymer/protein mixtures, etc. Due to their solid or
semi-solid consistency, solid emulsions are typically characterized by their
hardness, which can be measured by their resistance to penetration by a
probe or needle which is dropped or pushed into the solidfied composition.
Hardness can be measured using typically penetrometers such as a Voland-Stevens
LFRA Texture Analyzer available from Texture Technologies Corp. with Stevens
probe #TA-PG (5 mm diameter Cylinder) or equivalent thereof. Solid emulsion
foundations typically have a hardness in the range of 30-500 grams force as
measured as the minimum force required to push a cylinder of 5 mm diameter
to a depth of 3 mm into the composition at a speed of 0.2 mm/second.
Hardness is determined after the composition has been allowed to stabilize
following its preparation, generally at least 24 hours under the conditions
of 25.degree. C..+-.1.degree. C. and ambient pressure and is measured with
the composition at a temperature of 25.degree. C..+-.1.degree. C. Solid
emulsion foundations include for example compacts and sticks, and are
typically packaged in a compact or plastic cylinder and are typically
applied to the skin by finger or sponge applicator. Typically, the
foundations are used over a large area of skin, such as the face and neck.
As used herein, an "emulsion composition" means a composition comprising at
least two distinct phases known as the internal phase and the external
phase.
As used herein, the term "internal phase" of the emulsion composition is the
phase wherein the material or materials of said phase are dispersed as small
particles within another distinct phase of the emulsion composition.
As used herein, the term "external phase" of the emulsion composition is the
phase wherein the internal phase is dispersed within.
Preferred compositions of the present invention are formulated such that the
aqueous phase of the composition (whether as the internal phase or as the
external phase) has a pH ranging from about 5 to about 10, more preferably
from about 6 to about 8, most preferably from about 6.5 to about 7.5,
although the benefits of the invention (natural appearance cosmetics) can be
achieved at pHs as low as 2. The cosmetic compositions herein can be applied
by any conventional means including, for example, with the fingers, with an
applicator such as a brush or a sponge, or via aerolization, including, for
example, airbrush or electrostatic spray devices.
The compositions of the present invention, including the materials contained
therein and processes for making them, are described in detail as follows.
I. Materials
The compositions of the present invention are comprise the following
materials:
A. The Emulsion
The compositions of the present invention comprise an emulsion, wherein the
internal phase can be a liquid, gas, solid, liquid crystal, gel, or
combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the emulsion is selected
from the group consisting of water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions,
water-in-silicone, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone elastomer emulsions,
silicone elastomer-in-water emulsions and combinations thereof. Preferably
an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion is used. More preferably,
compositions of the present invention comprise water-in-oil emulsions. When
the compositions of the present invention are used as cosmetic products, the
compositions typically comprise from about 50% to about 99.9%, preferably
from about 70% to about 95%, more preferably from about 80% to about 90%, of
an emulsion. Solid emulsion compact foundation compositions of the present
invention typically comprise from about 50% to about 99.9%, preferably from
about 60% to about 99.9%, more preferably from about 70% to about 99.9%, by
weight of the composition, of an emulsion. Liquid foundation compositions
typically comprise from about 80% to about 99.9%, by weight of the
composition, of an emulsion.
The emulsion may also contain an anti-foaming agent to minimize foaming upon
application to a substrate. Anti-foaming agents include high molecular
weight silicones and other materials well known in the art for such use.
Suitable emulsions may have a wide range of viscosities, depending on the
desired product form. Exemplary low viscosity emulsions, which are
preferred, have a viscosity of about 50 centistokes or less, more preferably
about 10 centistokes or less, and most perferably from about 5 centistokes
or less.
The emulsion comprises an internal (i.e., dispersed) phase and an external
phase. When water is the internal phase (i.e., the aqueous phase of
water-in-oil or water-in-silicone emulsion), the emulsion typically
comprises from about 1% to about 99%, preferably from about 15% to about
90%, more preferably from about 40% to about 85%, by weight of the emulsion.
When water is the external phase, the emulsion typically comprises from
about 1% to about 99%, preferably from about 10% to about 85%, more
preferably from about 15% to about 60%, by weight of the emulsion. Highly
concentrated emulsions wherein the internal phase comprises a high
proportion of the emulsion and wherein the proportion of the external phase
is minimized, are very stable and are, therefore, preferred herein.
The internal phase is typically in the form of droplets which typically
range in size from about 0.15 to about 40 microns in diameter, preferably
from about 0.20 to about 30 microns and most preferably from about 0.25 to
about 20 microns. The particle size of the droplets comprising the internal
phase of the emulsion can be determined as described in the "Analytical
Methods" section hereinafter.
It is understood that the oil phase of the emulsions herein (whether as the
external phase or as the internal phase) can comprise a wide variety of
hydrophobic and other components. Numerous examples can be found in Sagarin,
Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972),
and Cosmetic Bench Reference, Cosmetics & Toiletries, pp. 1.19-1.22 (1996)
herein incorporated by reference. Nonlimiting examples of suitable
hydrophobic components for use in the compositions herein include those
selected from the group consisting of:
(i) Mineral oil, which is also known as petrolatum liquid, is a mixture of
liquid hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. See, The Merck Index, Tenth
Edition, Entry 7048, p. 1033 (1983) and International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary, Fifth Edition, vol. 1, p. 415-417 (1993), which are incorporated
by reference herein in their entirety.
(ii) Petrolatum, which is also known as petroleum jelly, is a colloidal
system of nonstraight-chain solid hydrocarbons and high-boiling liquid
hydrocarbons, in which most of the liquid hydrocarbons are held inside the
micelles or micelle-like self assembled aggregates. See, The Merck Index,
Tenth Edition, Entry 7047, p. 1033 (1983); Schindler, Drug. Cosmet. Ind.,
89, 36-37, 76, 78-80, 82 (1961); and International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary, Fifth Edition, vol. 1, p. 537 (1993), which are incorporated by
reference herein in their entirety.
(iii) Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about
40 carbon atoms. Nonlimiting examples of these hydrocarbon materials include
dodecane, isododecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene,
dodecosane (i.e. a C.sub.22 hydrocarbon), hexadecane, isohexadecane (a
commercially available hydrocarbon sold as Permethyl.RTM. 101A by Presperse,
South Plainfield, N.J.). Also useful are the C7-C40 isoparaffins, which are
C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons.
(iv) C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and of C2-C30
dicarboxylic acids, including straight and branched chain materials as well
as aromatic derivatives (as used herein in reference to the hydrophobic
component, mono- and poly-carboxylic acids include straight chain, branched
chain and aryl carboxylic acids). Nonlimiting examples include isononyl
isononanoate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate,
diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, methyl
palmitate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl
neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate,
stearyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, methyl stearate, cetyl stearate,
behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate,
cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate.
(v) Mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, e.g., caprylic/capric
triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-8 caprylic/capric
triglyceride.
(vi) Alkylene glycol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, e.g., ethylene
glycol mono- and di-esters, and propylene glycol mono- and di-esters of
C1-C30 carboxylic acids e.g., ethylene glycol distearate.
(vii) Propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of the foregoing materials.
(viii) C1-C30 mono- and poly-esters of sugars and related materials. These
esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic
acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can
be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid
esters include: glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean oil
fatty acids (unsaturated), the mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil
fatty acids, the galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose
tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate,
sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil
fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate,
sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures
thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester in which the
carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1:2
molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester
moieties are linoleate and behenate in a 1:3 molar ratio; the heptaester of
maltose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed
oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3:4 molar ratio; the octaester of
sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and
behenate in a 2:6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the
esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in
a 1:3:4 molar ratio. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in
which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid
moieties are C18 mono- and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio
of unsaturates:behenic of 1:7 to 3:5. A particularly preferred solid sugar
polyester is the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic
fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Other
materials include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of
sucrose. The ester materials are further described in, U.S. Pat. Nos.
2,831,854, 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977; U.S. Pat. No.
4,005,195, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977, U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,516, to
Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,515, to Letton et
al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al., issued
Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 4,797,300, to Jandacek et al., issued Jan. 10,
1989; U.S. Pat. No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, issued Jun. 15, 1976; U.S.
Pat. No. 4,518,772, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and U.S. Pat. No.
4,517,360, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; all of which are incorporated
by reference herein in their entirety.
(ix) Organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil may be volatile,
non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term
"nonvolatile" as used in this context refers to those silicones that are
liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one
atmospheric of pressure) of or greater than about 100.degree. C. The term
"volatile" as used in this context refers to all other silicone oils.
Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of
silicones spanning a broad range of volatilities and viscosities.
Nonlimiting examples of suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.
5,069,897, to Orr, issued Dec. 3, 1991, and Cosmetic Bench Reference,
Cosmetics & Toiletries, pp. 1.33-1.34 (1996) which are incorporated by
reference herein in its entirety. Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane
oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, and
polyalkylarylsiloxanes.
Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the composition herein include
polyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities of from about 0.5 to about 1,000,000
centistokes at 25.degree. C. Such polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by
the general chemical formula R.sub.3SiO[R.sub.2SiO].sub.xSiR.sub.3 wherein R
is an alkyl group having from one to about 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is
methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl; also mixed alkyl groups can be used
in the same molecule), and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000, chosen to
achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over about
10,000,000. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the
polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, examples of
which include the Vicasil.RTM. series sold by General Electric Company and
the Dow Corning.RTM. 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specific
examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Corning.RTM. 200
fluid having a viscosity of 0.65 centistokes and a boiling point of
100.degree. C., Dow Corning.RTM. 225 fluid having a viscosity of 10
centistokes and a boiling point greater than 200.degree. C., and Dow
Corning.RTM. 200 fluids having viscosities of 50, 350, and 12,500
centistokes, respectively, and boiling points greater than 200.degree. C.
Examples of suitable alkyl and substituted dimethicones include those
represented by the chemical formula
(CH.sub.3).sub.3SiO[(CH.sub.3).sub.2SiO].sub.x[CH.sub.3RSiO].sub.-
ySi(CH.sub.3).sub.3 wherein R is straight or branched chain alkyl having
from two to about 30 carbon atoms and x and y are each integers of 1 or
greater selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to
over about 10,000,000. Examples of these alkyl-substituted dimethicones
include cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone.
Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the composition include those
represented by the chemical formula [SiR.sub.2--O].sub.n wherein R is an
alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and n
is an integer from about 3 to about 8, more preferably n is an integer from
about 3 to about 7, and most preferably n is an integer from about 4 to
about 6. When R is methyl, these materials are typically referred to as
cyclomethicones. Commercially available cyclomethicones include Dow
Corning.RTM. 244 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes, and a boiling
point of 172.degree. C., which primarily contains the cyclomethicone
tetramer (i.e. n=4), Dow Corning.RTM. 344 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5
centistokes and a boiling point of 178.degree. C., which primarily contains
a mixture of the cyclomethicone tetramer and pentamer (i.e. n=4 and 5), Dow
Corning.RTM. 245 fluid having a viscosity of 4.2 centistokes and a boiling
point of 205.degree. C., which primarily contains the cyclomethicone
pentamer (i.e. n=5), and Dow Corning.RTM. 345 fluid having a viscosity of
4.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 217.degree., which primarily contains
a mixture of the cyclomethicone tetramer, pentamer, and hexamer (i.e. n=4,
5, and 6).
Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is a
polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula
[(CH.sub.2).sub.3SiO.sub.1/2].sub.x[SiO.sub.2].sub.y, wherein x is an
integer from about 1 to about 500 and y is an integer from about 1 to about
500. A commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture
with dimethicone as Dow Corning.RTM. 593 fluid.
Dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. These compounds
can be represented by the chemical formulas
R.sub.3SiO[R.sub.2SiO].sub.xSiR.sub.2OH and
HOR.sub.2SiO[R.sub.2SiO].sub.xSiR.sub.2OH wherein R is an alkyl group
(preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an
integer from 0 to about 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight.
Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with
dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow Corning.RTM. 1401, 1402, and 1403
fluids).
Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition.
Polymethylphenyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 15 to about 65
centistokes at 25.degree. C. are especially useful.
Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected from the group
consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones,
cyclomethicones, trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl
siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are
polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred among the
polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones.
(x) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable
oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil,
coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut
oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame
oil, sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor
oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated
menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil,
hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed
oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated
sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, and mixtures thereof.
(xi) Animal fats and oils, e.g., lanolin and derivatives thereof, cod liver
oil.
(xii) Other materials: Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene
glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and
di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers. Nonlimiting examples of these materials include
PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl
ether, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the oil phase comprises silicones. More preferably from about
30% to about 95%, most preferably from about 50% to about 90% of the oil
phase is volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.
Still more preferably, these silicones are chosen from cyclomethicones,
trimethicones, such as methyl trimethicone, dimethicones and mixtures
thereof. Thus one of the most preferred oil phases can be considered, and is
thus defined as a "silicone" phase. For purposes of the present invention,
the terms "water-in-oil emulsions" and "oil-in-water emulsions" encompass
water-in-silicone emulsions and silicone-in-water emulsions, respectively.
B. The Charged Species
The compositions herein also comprise a charged species that possesses a
charge that is opposite that of the charged insoluble solid particles
(hereinafter described). This species can be present within the internal
phase of the emulsion, at the interface of the emulsion, and/or in the
external phase of the emulsion (in bulk). Typically and preferably, a
substantial portion of the species are present at the interface of the
internal phase and the external phase of the emulsion.
The species can be for example, hydrogen ion, an acid, a base, an ionic
polymer, an ionic surfactant, a lipid or mixtures thereof. Ionic surfactants
include cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants. Suitable ionic
surfactants for use herein are described hereinafter in the subsection
entitled "Emulsifiers".
In a highly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the species
comprises an ionic polymer and is present at the interface between the
internal phase and the external phase of the emulsion. In this embodiment of
the invention, the emulsion droplet contains an amount of ionic polymer
sufficient to cover the surface of the droplet. In particular, the present
invention comprises from about 0.1% to about 25%, more preferably from about
0.5% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, by
weight of the composition, of charged species.
Suitable anionic polymers for use in this embodiment of the invention
include, but are not limited to, copolymers of polyacrylate, ammonium
polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, ethylene acrylic
acid copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein polysiloxane copolymer, dimethicone
copolyol phosphate, phosphate ester, sodium chondroiton sulfate, sodium
hyaluronate, ammonium hyaluronate, sodium alginate, ammonium alginate,
diglycol cyclohexanedimethanol isophthalates sulfoisophthalates copolymer
and mixtures therof.
Suitable cationic polymers for use in this embodiment of the invention
include, but are not limited to, cellulose derivatives, polysaccharides,
chitosan, derivatives of chitosan, chitosan di-pyrrolidone carboxylate,
hydroxypropyl chitosan, quaterniums, quaternium-80, quaternium-61,
polyquaterniums, hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium phosphate, adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl
diethyltriamine copolymer, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, dimethicone
copolyol amine(s), amidomethicones, dimethicone salts and mixtures thereof.
Exemplary lipids include charged lipids which are compatible with skin such
as phospholipids, simple carboxylic esters including fats (esters of fatty
acids with glycerol), and waxes (sterol esters, esters of fatty acids with
alcohols other than glycerol), complex carboxylic esters (glycerophospholipids,
glycoglycerolipids, glycoglycerolipid sulfates), complex lipids (lipids
containing amides, sphinogolipids, gylcosphingolipids), precursors and
derived lipids including phosphatidic acid, bile acids, and bases such as
sphinganines, hydrocarbons containing charged moieties (either straight or
simple branched chain), lipid vitamins and hormones with multiple functional
charged groups, and lipoproteins.
C. Charged Insoluble Solid Particles
The composition of the present invention includes charged insoluble solid
particles. These charged particles of the present invention preferably have
a particle size of less than 200 .mu.m. Typically, the particles will have a
particle size from about 0.001 .mu.m to about 50 .mu.m, still more
preferably from about 0.005 .mu.m to about 1 .mu.m, and even more preferably
from about 0.01 .mu.m to about 0.1 .mu.m in diameter.
Typical particle levels are selected depending upon the particular purpose
of the composition. For example, where it is desired to deliver color
benefits, pigment particles conferring the desired hues can be incorporated.
Where the desire is to treat or prevent symptoms such as diaper rash,
inflammation, and/or other skin disorders, the present invention allows for
insoluble skin care agents to be delivered more uniformly to the skin.
Determination of the levels and particle types is within the skill of the
artisan. Particles that are generally recognized as safe, and are listed in
C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Sixth Ed., Cosmetic and Fragrance
Assn., Inc., Washington D.C. (1995), incorporated herein by reference, can
be used.
In the compositions of the present invention, it is preferable to
incorporate from about 0.01% to about 80%, more preferably from about 0.1%
to about 50%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 30%, and most
preferably from about 5% to about 20%, by weight of the composition, of
charged insoluble solid particles.
The particles can be scattering or non-scattering and may or may not impart
color. Suitable particles include bismuth oxychloride, titanated mica, fumed
silica, spherical silica, polymethylmethacrylate, micronized teflon, boron
nitride, acrylate polymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch
octenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn
starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, hectorite,
hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium carbonate,
magnesium hydroxide, magnesium oxide, magnesium silicate, magnesium
trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystaline cellulose, rice
starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate,
zinc neodecanoate, zinc rosinate, zinc stearate, polyethylene, alumina,
attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon,
silica silylate, silk powder, sericite, soy flour, tin oxide, titanium
hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder, or mixtures thereof.
The above mentioned particles may be surface treated with lecithin, amino
acids, mineral oil, silicone oil, or various other agents either alone or in
combination, which coat the powder surface and render the particles
hydrophobic in nature.
Water insoluble solid particles of various shapes and densities are useful.
In a preferred embodiment, the particles tend to have a spherical, an oval,
an irregular, or any other shape in which the ratio of the largest dimension
to the smallest dimension (defined as the aspect ratio) is less than 10.
More preferably, the aspect ratio of the particles is less than 8. Still
more preferably, the aspect ratio of the particles is less than 5.
Particles useful in the present invention can be nano, micro, and mixtures
thereof, and can be natural, synthetic, or semi-synthetic in composition.
Hybrid particles are also useful. Synthetic particles can be made of either
cross-linked or non cross-linked polymers. The particles of the present
invention can have surface charges or their surface can be modified with
organic or inorganic materials such as surfactants, polymers, and inorganic
materials. Particle complexes are also useful.
Non limiting examples of natural particles include various precipitated
silica particles in hydrophilic and hydrophobic forms available from
Degussa-Huls under the trade name Sipernet. Snowtex colloidal silica
particles available from Nissan Chemical America Corporation.
Examples of synthetic particles include nylon, silicone resins,
poly(meth)acrylates, polyethylene, polyester, polypropylene, polystyrene,
polyurethane, polyamide, epoxy resins, urea resins, and acrylic powders. Non
limiting examples of useful particles are Microease 110S, 114S, 116 (micronized
synthetic waxes), Micropoly 210, 250S (micronized polyethylene), Microslip (micronized
polytetrafluoroethylene), and Microsilk (combination of polyethylene and
polytetrafluoroethylene), all of which are available from Micro Powder, Inc.
Other examples include Luna (smooth silica particles) particles available
from Phenomenex, MP-2200 (polymethylmethacrylate), EA-209 (ethylene/acrylate
copolymer), SP-501(nylon-12), ES-830 (polymethly methacrylate), BPD-800,
BPD-500 (polyurethane) particles available from Kobo Products, Inc. and
silicone resins sold under the name Tospearl particles by GE Silicones.
Ganzpearl GS-0605 crosslinked polystyrene (available from Presperse) is also
useful.
Non limiting examples of hybrid particles include Ganzpearl GSC-30SR (Sericite
& crosslinked polystyrene hybrid powder), and SM-1000, SM-200 (mica and
silica hybrid powder available from Presperse).
In one embodiment of the present invention, the particles used in the
composition are hollow particles. In a preferred embodiment, the hollow
particles are fluid-encapsulated, flexible microspheres. The microspheres
are structurally hollow, however, they may contain various fluids, which
encompass liquids and gases and their isomers. The gases include, but not
limited to, butane, pentane, air, nitrogen, oxygen, carbon dioxide, and
dimethyl ether. If used, liquids may only partially fill the microspheres.
The liquids include water and any compatible solvent. The liquids may also
contain vitamins, amino acids, proteins and protein derivatives, herbal
extracts, pigments, dyes, antimicrobial agents, chelating agents, UV
absorbers, optical brighteners, silicone compounds, perfumes, humectants
which are generally water soluble, additional conditioning agents which are
generally water insoluble, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, water
soluble components are preferred encompassed material. In another
embodiment, components selected from the group consisting of vitamins, amino
acids, proteins, protein derivatives, herbal extracts, and mixtures thereof
are preferred encompassed material. In yet another embodiment, components
selected from the group consisting of vitamin E, pantothenyl ethyl ether,
panthenol, Polygonum multiflori extracts, and mixtures thereof are preferred
encompassed material.
The particles of the present invention can have surface charges or their
surface can be modified with organic or inorganic materials such as
surfactants, polymers, and inorganic materials. Particle complexes are also
useful. Non-limiting examples of complexes of gas-encapsulated microspheres
are DSPCS-I2.TM. (silica modified ethylene/methacrylate copolymer
microsphere) and SPCAT-I2.TM. (talc modified ethylene/methacrylate copolymer
microsphere). Both of these are available from Kobo Products, Inc.
The surface of the particle may be charged through a static development or
with the attachment of various ionic groups directly or linked via short,
long or branched alkyl groups. The surface charge can be anionic, cationic,
zwitterionic or amphoteric in nature.
The wall of the particles of the present invention may be formed from a
thermoplastic material. The thermoplastic material may be a polymer or
copolymer of at least one monomer selected from the following groups:
acrylates, methacrylates, styrene, substituted styrene, unsaturated
dihalides, acrylonitriles, methacrylonitrile. The thermoplastic materials
may contain amide, ester, urethane, urea, ether, carbonate, acetal, sulfide,
phosphate, phosphonate ester, and siloxane linkages. The hollow particles
may comprise from 1% to 60% of recurring structural units derived from
vinylidene chloride, from 20% to 90% of recurring structural units derived
from acrylonitrile and from 1% to 50% of recurring structural units derived
from a (meth)acrylic monomer, the sum of the percentages (by weight) being
equal to 100. The (meth)acrylic monomer is, for example, a methyl acrylate
or methacrylate, and especially the methacrylate. Preferably, the particles
are comprised of a polymer or copolymer of at least one monomer selected
from expanded or non-expanded vinylidene chloride, acrylic, styrene, and (meth)acrylonitrile.
More preferably, the particles are comprised of a copolymer of acrylonitrile
and methacrylonitrile.
Particles comprised of polymers and copolymers obtained from esters, such
as, for example, vinyl acetate or lactate, or acids, such as, for example,
itaconic, citraconic, maleic or fumaric acids may also be used. See, in this
regard, Japanese Patent Application No. JP-A-2-112304, the full disclosure
of which is incorporated herein by reference.
Non-limiting examples of commercially available suitable particles are 551
DE (particle size range of approximately 30-50 .mu.m and density of
approximately 42 kg/m.sup.3), 551 DE 20 (particle size range of
approximately 15-25 .mu.m and density of approximately 60 kg/m.sup.3), 461
DE (particle size range of approximately 20-40 .mu.m and density 60
kg/m.sup.3), 551 DE 80 (particle size of approximately 50-80 .mu.m and
density of approximately 42 kg/m.sup.3), 091 DE (particle size range of
approximately 35-55 .mu.m and density of approximately 30 kg/m.sup.3), all
of which are marketed under the trademark EXPANCEL.TM. by Akzo Nobel. Other
examples of suitable particles for use herein are marketed under the
trademarks DUALITE.RTM. and MICROPEARL.TM. series of microspheres from
Pierce & Stevens Corporation. Particularly preferred hollow particles are
091 DE and 551DE 50. The hollow particles of the present invention exist in
either dry or hydrated state. The aforesaid particles are nontoxic and non
irritating to the skin.
Hollow particles that are useful in the invention can be prepared, for
example, via the processes described in EP-56,219, EP-348,372, EP-486,080,
EP-320,473, EP-112,807 and U.S. Pat. No. 3,615,972, the full disclosure of
each of which is incorporated herein by reference.
Alternatively, the wall of the hollow particles useful in the present
invention may be formed from an inorganic material. The inorganic material
may be a silica, a soda-lime-borosilicate glass, a silica-alumina ceramic,
or an alkali alumino silicate ceramic. Non-limiting examples of commercially
available suitable low density, inorganic particles are H50/10,000 EPX
(particle size range approximately 20-60 .mu.m), S38 (particle size range
approximately 15-65 .mu.m), W-210 (particle size range approximately 1-12 .mu.m),
W-410 (particle size range approximately 1-24 .mu.m), W-610 (particle size
range approximately 1-40 .mu.m), G-200 (particle size range approximately
1-12 .mu.m), G-400 (particle size range approximately 1-24 .mu.m), G-600
(particle size range approximately 1-40 .mu.m), all of which are marketed
under the trademarks 3M.TM. Scotchlite.TM. Glass Bubbles, 3M.TM.
Zeeospheres.TM. ceramic microspheres, and 3M.TM. Z-Light Spheres.TM. Ceramic
Microspheres. Also useful are Silica shells (average particle size 3 .mu.m)
available from KOBO Products and LUXSIL.TM. (3-13 .mu.m mean diameter)
available from PQ Corporation.
Preferably, the wall of the hollow particles useful in the invention are
flexible. "Flexible", as used herein, means that the hollow particles are
easy to compress. When pressure is reduced the hollow particles regain their
original volume. The flexible hollow particles could alter their shape under
an applied stress, or thermal expansion and contraction due to temperature
change. Thus, the particles could expand upon heating.
The particles of the invention may be permeable or non-permeable.
"Permeable", as used herein, means that they permit a liquid or gas to pass
through them under given conditions. Preferably, a majority of the particles
of the present invention will maintain their structural integrity during
normal use of the composition. More preferably, substantially all of the
particles maintain their structural integrity during normal use of the
composition.
Prefered particles will also have physical properties which are not
significantly affected by typical processing of the composition. Preferably,
particles having melting points greater than about 70.degree. C. are used.
Still more preferably, particles having a melting point greater than
80.degree. C. are used and most preferrably particles having melting point
of greater than about 95.degree. C. are used. As used herein, melting point
would refer to the temperature at which the particle transitions to a liquid
or fluid state or undergoes significant deformation or physical property
changes. In addition, many of the particles of present invention are
cross-linked or have a cross-linked surface membrane. These particles do not
exhibit a distinct melting point. Cross-linked particles are also useful as
long as they are stable under the processing and storage conditions used in
the making of the present compositions.
Because of the interaction between the oppositely charged species present in
the emulsion and the insoluble solid particles, essentially none of the
charged particles adsorbed at the interface of the internal phase and the
external phase are subject to Brownian motion. Thus, the charged particles
remain dispersed and are prevented from re-agglomerating in the composition.
When the composition is applied to the substrate, the charged insoluble
solid particles stay dispersed on the substrate. The term "essentially none"
as used herein means less than about 30%, preferably less than about 10%,
more preferably less than about 5%.
Brownian motion can be observed by transmitted light microscopy according to
the method set forth hereinafter in the analytical methods section.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, essentially all of the
charged species and charged particles accumulate at the interface between
the internal phase and the external phase of the emulsion. As used herein,
the term "essentially all" means that at least about 70%, preferably at
least about 90%, more preferably at least about 95% of the charged pigment
particles are accumulated at the interface of the internal phase and the
external phase of the emulsion. The accumulation of insoluble solid
particles at the interface between the internal phase and the external phase
of the emulsion can be observed by light and electron microscopy using the
method set forth hereinafter in the Analytical Methods section.
1. Charged Pigment Particles
The charged insoluble solid particles of the present invention may comprise
charged pigment particles which may be organic, inorganic, or a mixture
thereof. As used herein, the term "pigment" means an insoluble solid
particulate material that reflects light of certain wavelengths while
absorbing light of other wavelengths, including luminescent solids. Suitable
charged pigment particles include organic pigments which are generally
various aromatic types including azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane,
anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes which are designated as D&C and FD&C blues,
browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows, etc. Organic pigments generally
consist of insoluble metallic salts of certified color additives, referred
to as the Lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron oxides, titanium dioxide,
ultramarine and chromium or chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof.
Useful pigments include, but are not limited to, those which are extended
onto inert mineral (e.g., talc, calcium carbonate, clay), or treated with
silicone or other coatings (e.g., to prevent pigment particles from
re-agglomerating or to change the polarity (or hydrophobicity) of the
pigment.
Pigments are used to impart opacity and/or color to the compositions herein.
Any pigment that is generally recognized as safe (such as those listed in
C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 3rd Ed., Cosmetic and Fragrance
Association, Inc., Washington D.C. (1982), herein incorporated by reference)
can be employed in the compositions herein. Useful pigments include body
pigments, inorganic white pigments, inorganic colored pigments, and pearling
agents. Also useful herein are pigment and/or dye encapsulates such as
nanocolorants and multi-layer interference pigments, such as Sicopearls,
both from BASF. Specific examples of suitable pigments include multi-layered
effects pigments, lakes, toners, mica, magnesium carbonate, calcium
carbonate, magnesium silicate, aluminum magnesium silicate, silica, titanium
dioxide, zinc oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide,
ultramarine, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, methacrylate powder,
polystyrene powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose, starch, titanated
mica, iron oxide titanated mica, and bismuth oxychloride. These pigments and
powders can be used independently or in combination. Titanium oxide, iron
oxides, lakes, toners and mixtures thereof are especially preferred pigments
for use herein.
The pigments are used in a concentration sufficient to provide a pleasing
color to the composition in the container in which the cosmetic is sold and
to confer the desired coverage and color to the skin when applied.
Determination of the specific levels and types of pigment is within the
skill of the artisan. The pigments can be used as treated particles or as
the raw pigments themselves.
In order to provide a natural appearance when applied to the skin, the
compositions of the present invention suitable for cosmetics will usually
contain from about 0.01% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about
30%, most preferably from about 5% to about 20%, by weight of the
composition, of charged pigment particles.
The charged pigment particles of the present invention have a primary
particle size ranging from about 0.01 .mu.m-200 .mu.m, preferably from about
0.1 .mu.m-100 .mu.m, and more preferably from about 0.05 .mu.m-90 .mu.m.
Primary particle size of the charged pigment particles can be determined by
using the ASTM Designation E-20-85 "Standard Practice for Particle Size
Analysis of Particulate Substances in the Range of 0.2 to 75 Micrometers by
Optical Microscopy", ASTM Volume 14.02, 1993.
The relative size of the emulsion droplet to that of the charged pigment
particles is unimportant so long as the charged pigment particle is not
larger than the emulsion droplet. In fact, the benefits of the invention can
be achieved even when the emulsion droplets and charged pigment particles
form "doublets", meaning that the emulsion droplet and the charged pigment
particle are of the same approximate relative size. The preferred size ratio
of emulsion droplet to charged pigment particle ranges from about 1:1 to
about 50:1, preferably from about 3:1 to about 30:1, most preferably from
about 5:1 to about 15:1.
As herein before described, the charged pigment particles utilized in the
present invention have a charge opposite to the charge of the charged
species present in the emulsion. The charge of the pigment particles can be
imparted by any conventional means. In a preferred embodiment of the present
invention, the pigment particles contain an ionic polymer or ionic
surfactant to increase or impart a charge to the pigment particles. This
embodiment of the present invention is preferred not only from the
standpoint of providing the most uniform coverage of the pigment on the
skin, but also from the standpoint of preventing separation or "streaking"
of blends of pigments in the product and on the skin. In this embodiment of
the invention, the pigment particle contains an amount of ionic polymer
sufficient to cover the surface of the particle without excess in bulk.
Suitable cationic polymers and anionic polymers for use herein are described
herein before in section (B) entitled "The Charged Species".
The charged pigment materials are available in essentially neat, powdered
form, or predispersed in various types of carriers, including but not
limited to water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent
alcohols (e.g., C.sub.1-C.sub.4) and low molecular weight glycols and
polyols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g., molecular
weight 200-600 g/mole), polypropylene glycol (e.g., molecular weight
425-2025 g/mole), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol
esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, butanediol,
ether propanol, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations
thereof. Preferably, the charged pigment materials are predispersed in
water, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of charged particulate materials include predispersions of ammonium
polyacrylate treated TiO.sub.2, butylene glycol, water, and ammonium
zirconium carbonate, predispersions of chitosan (or a chitosan derivative)
treated TiO.sub.2 and butylene glycol, and predispersions of ammonium
polyacrylate treated TiO.sub.2, water, glycerin, and ammonium zirconium
carbonate.
D. Optional Ingredients
The compositions herein may contain a wide variety of optional ingredients
that perform one or more functions useful in products of the type described
herein. Such optional ingredients may be found in either the internal phase
or the external phase (or any other phase) of the compositions herein. The
CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes a wide
variety of nonlimiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used
in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the compositions of
the present invention. Examples of these ingredient classes include:
abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, pigments,
colorings/colorants, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, etc.),
anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial
agents, antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents,
bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic
astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, drug astringents, external
analgesics, enzymes, emulsifiers, film formers or materials, e.g., polymers,
for aiding the film-forming properties and substantivity of the composition,
opacifying agents, other pigments, pH adjusters, propellants, proteins,
reducing agents, sequestrants, skin bleaching and lightening agents,
skin-conditioning agents (e.g., humectants, including miscellaneous and
occlusive), skin soothing and/or healing agents), skin treating agents,
structuring agents, organic and inorganic sunscreen agents, thickeners,
vitamins and derivatives thereof.
Claim 1 of 4 Claims
1. A particle stabilizing composition
comprising: a. an emulsion comprising about 1% to about 99%, by weight of
the emulsion, of an internal phase and from about 1% to about 99%, by
weight of the emulsion, of an external phase; b. a first charged species
which is selected form the group consisting of a first polyanion and a
first polycation wherein said first species is present in the emulsion;
and c. charged insoluble solid particles comprising titanium dioxide that
are dispersed in said emulsion in the presence of a second charged species
which is selected from the group consisting of a second polyanion and a
second polycation; wherein the first or second polyanion is selected from
the group consisting of ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate,
potassium polyacrylate, ethylene acrylic acid copolymer, and mixtures
thereof, wherein the first or second polycation is selected from the group
consisting of quaterniums, quaternium-80, quaternium-61, polyquaterniums,
and mixtures thereof; wherein the first charged species possesses a charge
opposed to that of the second charged species and of the charged insoluble
solid particles and wherein essentially all of the charged species and
charged insoluble solid particles accumulate at the interface of the
emulsion and wherein Brownian motion is not exhibited by the insoluble
solid particles.
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