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Title:
Polyglycerol partial esters of polyricinoleic acid and polyfunctional
carboxylic acids and the use thereof for producing emulsions and
dispersions
United States Patent: 7,906,664
Issued: March 15, 2011
Inventors: Allef; Petra
(Bonn, DE), Berkels; Wolfgang (Bottrop, DE), Fotsch; Hannelore (Essen,
DE), Meyer; Jurgen (Muenster, DE)
Assignee: Evonik
Goldschmidt GmbH (Essen, DE)
Appl. No.: 11/335,250
Filed: January 19, 2006
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Patheon
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Abstract
The invention relates to polyglycerol
partial esters of polyricinoleic acid and polyfunctional carboxylic acids,
obtainable by esterification of a a) polyglycerol mixture with b) at least
one polyricinoleic acid and c) at least one di- and/or tricarboxylic acid
and optionally d) at least one fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms by
methods known per se, and to the use thereof for producing cosmetic or
pharmaceutical emulsions or dispersions.
Description of the
Invention
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Surprisingly, it has now been found that very low-viscosity, light
water-in-oil emulsions can be obtained using emulsifiers based on
polyglycerol partial esters of polyricinoleic acid which are additionally
linked via di- or tricarboxylic acids. These linked polyglycerol
polyricinoleates have neither a greasy-rancid odor, nor do they exhibit a
greater sensitivity to oxidation than polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates.
Using the inventive emulsifiers it is possible, in contrast to
uncrosslinked polyglyceryl ricinoleates and polyhydroxystearates, to
formulate emulsions with considerably lower viscosity. This makes it
possible to formulate lotions with a very low oil phase content (<22% by
weight) which have a correspondingly light feel on the skin.
The present invention therefore provides polyesters of polyricinoleic acid
and polyfunctional carboxylic acids, obtainable by esterification of a) a
polyglycerol mixture with b) at least one polyricinoleic acid of the
general formula 1
-- see Original Patent.
The invention further provides polyesters of polyricinoleic acid and
polyfunctional carboxylic acids, obtainable by esterification a) of a
polyglycerol mixture with b) at least one polyricinoleic acid of the
general formula 1
-- see Original Patent.
The present invention further provides polyglycerol partial esters as
disclosed herein, prepared by esterification of a) 1.0 mol of OH groups of
the polyglycerol mixture with b) 0.01 to 0.5 mol, in particular 0.05 to
0.3 mol, of COOH groups of the polyricinoleic acid, and c) 0.01 to 0.5
mol, in particular 0.05 to 0.3 mol, of COOH groups of at least one di-
and/or tricarboxylic acid, and d) 0.01 to 0.9 mol, in particular 0.1 to
0.6 mol, of COOH groups of the fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the sum of the COOH groups corresponds to about 20
to 75% of the OH groups of the polyglycerol mixture.
The present invention further provides cosmetic, dermatological or
pharmaceutical preparations which comprise at least one of the
polyglycerol partial esters according to the instant invention. These
preparations are preferably emulsions which can optionally comprise
dispersed solids. In particular, the use of the polyglycerol partial
esters according to the invention as water-in-oil emulsifiers or
dispersion auxiliaries is at the forefront here.
The invention further provides care and cleaning compositions for
household and industry, in particular for hard surfaces, for leather or
textiles, which comprise at least one of the polyglycerol partial esters
according to the present invention. These preparations are preferably
emulsions which can optionally comprise dispersed solids. In particular,
the use of the polyglycerol partial esters as water-in-oil emulsifiers or
dispersion auxiliaries is at the forefront here.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention, which relates to polyglycerol partial esters of
polyricinoleic acid and polyfunctional carboxylic acids, will now be
described in greater detail by referring to the following discussion.
Before discussing the invention in detail, it is noted that the
condensation products based on ricinoleic acid according to the present
invention are liquid and are thus also suitable for the energy-saving
"cold-cold" preparation of emulsions besides the classic "hot-hot"
preparation.
The polyricinoleic acids co-used according to the invention are prepared
in accordance with the known methods of the prior art, for example, by
polycondensation of ricinoleic acid, optionally with co-use of
hydroxystearic acid.
Esterification products of the general formula 1
-- see Original Patent.
According to the present invention, it is also possible to use mixtures of
polyricinoleic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid.
Suitable polyglycerols are, in particular, those of the general formulae
2A and 2B
-- see Original Patent.
These are technical-grade polyglycerol mixtures which are obtained, for
example, by alkali-catalyzed condensation of glycerol at elevated
temperatures, from which it is possible to obtain fractions with the
desired degree of condensation, if appropriate, through distillation
processes. Likewise, of suitability, are also polyglycerols which are
obtained in another way, e.g., from epichlorohydrin or glycidol.
It has proven particularly advantageous to use polyglycerols which have
the following homolog distribution (GC method); the preferred ranges are
given in brackets: Glycerol: 0 to 20 (<5) % by weight Diglycerols: 0 to 60
(5 to 30) % by weight Triglycerols: 0 to 60 (5 to 50) % by weight
Tetraglycerols: 0 to 30 (5 to 25) % by weight Pentaglycerols: 0 to 30 (5
to 20) % by weight Oligoglycerols: ad 100% by weight
Of particular suitability for the intended use according to the present
invention, as emulsifiers, is the use of relatively short-chain di- or
tricarboxylic acids, such as, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid,
glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid,
sebacic acid, or dodecanedioic acid. Hydroxydi- and tricarboxylic acids,
such as, malic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid, are likewise suitable.
Furthermore, aromatic acids, such as, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid or
terephthalic acid, can be used.
The dimeric fatty acids optionally co-used to prepare the compounds
according to the present invention are standard commercial products which
are prepared by polymerization of saturated or unsaturated natural or
synthetic monobasic aliphatic fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms in
accordance with known methods (see, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 2,482,761,
and U.S. Pat. No. 3,256,304). Typical commercially available dimeric fatty
acids have, for example, the following composition
-- see Original Patent.
where the content can fluctuate within these limits depending on the
origin of the monomers, the polymerization process and the work-up
process.
The dimeric fatty acid used may also be present in hydrogenated form.
The content of dimeric acid can be increased to 100% by weight by
generally known distillation processes. It is determined by the known
processes of gas-liquid chromatography (GLC). The acid numbers are in the
range from about 190 to 200.
By co-using these acids, a significantly improved stabilization of the
phase interfaces in W/O emulsions can be achieved.
Suitable additional fatty acid components are primarily saturated fatty
acids, such as, for example, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid,
palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic
acid and behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Naturally occurring mixtures are, for example, the coconut fatty acids
which comprise, as a main constituent, lauric acid, and also saturated
C.sub.14-C.sub.18-fatty acids and optionally saturated
C.sub.8-C.sub.10-fatty acids and unsaturated fatty acids, and also tallow
fatty acids, which essentially constitute a mixture of palmitic acid and
stearic acid.
Suitable additional unsaturated fatty acid components are monoolefinically
unsaturated acids, for example, hexadecenoic acids, octadecenoic acids,
such as, oleic acid (cis-9-octadecenoic acid) or elaidic acid
(trans-9-octadecenoic acid), eicosenoic acids and docosenoic acids, such
as, erucic acid (cis-13-docosenoic acid) or brassidic acid
(trans-13-docosenoic acid), polyunsaturated fatty acids, for example,
octodecadienoic acids and octodecatrienoic acids, such as, linoleic acid
and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Of particular suitability are the liquid fatty acids, such as, oleic acid,
ricinoleic acid, erucic acid and isostearic acid which contain 18 to 22
carbon atoms. On account of branching or a double bond in the hydrocarbon
chain, their solidification points are below 35.degree. C. It is also
possible to use fatty acid mixtures, which may also comprise wax-like
components, such as, hydrogenated ricinoleic acid.
Furthermore, the use of lactones, such as, butyrolactone or caprolactone,
as fatty acid component is possible.
In the polyglycerol partial esters according to the instant invention, the
hydroxyl groups of the polyglycerol are esterified to 20 to 75%,
preferably 40 to 70%.
For their preparation, preference is given to the variants A) and B)
according to which in A) the first stage polyglycerol is esterified to a
degree of esterification of from 10 to 70%, preferably 25 to 40%, with
fatty acid and dicarboxylic acid and/or tricarboxylic acid, and then in a
second stage is esterified with polyricinoleic acid to a total degree of
esterification of from 20 to 75%, preferably 40 to 60%, or in B) the first
stage polyglycerol is esterified to a degree of esterification of from 10
to 70%, preferably 25 to 40%, with fatty acid and polyricinoleic acid and
in a second stage is esterified with dicarboxylic acid and/or
tricarboxylic acid to a total degree of esterification of from 20 to 75%,
preferably 40 to 60%.
Adding the components in another order, such as, for example, adding
firstly the fatty acid, then the dicarboxylic acid and/or tricarboxylic
acid and subsequently the polyricinoleic acid, and one-pot processes are
likewise possible.
Through appropriate choice of the hydrophilic and lipophilic molecular
moieties it is possible, for example, to establish an HLB value of from
about 3 to 8 in order to obtain properties which are favorable for the
stabilization of W/O emulsions.
The polyglycerol partial esters according to the present invention can be
prepared in a manner known per se by heating the reaction components to
100.degree. to 300.degree. C., preferably 180.degree. to 260.degree. C.,
and removing the water of reaction which forms by distillation. To
increase the rate, acidic or basic catalysts, such as, sulfonic acids,
phosphoric acid or phosphorous acid, Lewis acids, such as, zinc salts,
alkali metal or alkaline earth metal oxides or hydroxides, alkoxides or
salts, can be co-used. The addition of a catalyst, however, is not
absolutely necessary. The progressing conversion can be monitored, for
example, by means of the water of reaction which has been separated off,
by measuring the acid number or by infrared spectroscopy. In general, an
acid number in the end product of <20, preferably <10, is the aim.
Particular preference is given to products with an acid number of <5.
The polyglycerol esters according to the present invention are
particularly suitable for producing emulsions and dispersions in which the
oil phase is the external phase.
Under certain prerequisites, e.g., by adding suitable hydrophilic
co-emulsifiers, the polyglycerol esters according to the present invention
can also be used for producing emulsions and dispersions in which the
aqueous phase forms the external phase.
Preference is given to their use as emulsifiers and dispersion auxiliaries
for producing cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations. These are cosmetic
preparations which, through the use of oil-in-water or water-in-oil
emulsifiers, are given a readily spreadable consistency because these
emulsifier systems allow an oil or a fat to be readily incorporated into
an aqueous phase, or an aqueous phase to be readily incorporated into an
oil or a fat, for example, creams, such as, care creams, baby creams or
sun protection creams, ointments, lotions or make-up. In pharmaceutical
preparations, such as, ointments or creams, oil-in-water or water-in-oil
emulsifiers are required for the formulation of active ingredients.
The cosmetic oils which are co-used include, in particular, mono- or
diesters of linear and/or branched mono- and/or dicarboxylic acids having
2 to 44 carbon atoms with linear and/or branched saturated or unsaturated
alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms. Likewise of suitability within the
meaning according to the present invention are the esterification products
of aliphatic, difunctional alcohols having 2 to 36 carbon atoms with
monofunctional aliphatic carboxylic acids having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
Monoesters suitable as oil components are, for example, the methyl esters
and isopropyl esters of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, for
example, methyl laurate, methyl stearate, methyl oleate, methyl erucate,
isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, or isopropyl
oleate. Other suitable monoesters are, for example, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl
laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl palmitate, isononyl
isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl
stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, or erucyl
oleate, and esters which are obtainable from technical-grade aliphatic
alcohol cuts and technical-grade, aliphatic carboxylic acid mixtures,
e.g., esters of unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms
and saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, as
are obtainable from animal and vegetable fats. Also of suitability,
however, are naturally occurring monoester and/or wax ester mixtures, as
are present, for example, in jojoba oil or in sperm oil.
Examples of dicarboxylic acid esters which are co-used include di-n-butyl
adipate, di-n-butyl sebacate, di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, or
di(2-hexyldecyl) succinate, diisotridecyl acelate. Suitable diol esters
are, for example, ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol
diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), butanediol
diisostearate and neopentyl glycol dicaprylate.
Further fatty acid esters which can be used are, for example,
C.sub.12-15-alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, or diethylhexyl
carbonate.
As oil component it is likewise possible to use fatty acid triglycerides,
preference being given among these to the naturally occurring oils and
fats. Thus, for example, natural vegetable oils, e.g., olive oil,
sunflower oil, soya oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil,
but also the liquid fractions of coconut oil or of palm kernel oil, and
animal oils, such as, for example, neatsfoot oil, the liquid fractions of
beef tallow or also synthetic triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid
mixtures, triglycerides of technical-grade oleic acid or of palmitic
acid/oleic acid mixtures are suitable as oil components.
In addition, hydrocarbons, in particular liquid paraffins and isoparaffins,
can be used. Examples of hydrocarbons which can be used are paraffin oil,
isohexadecane, polydecene, vaseline, paraffinum perliquidum, or squalane.
In addition, it is also possible to use linear or branched fatty alcohols,
such as, oleyl alcohol or octyldodecanol, and fatty alcohol ethers, such
as, dicaprylyl ether.
Suitable silicone oils and silicone waxes are, for example,
polydimethylsiloxanes, cyclomethylsiloxanes, and also aryl- or alkyl- or
alkoxy-substituted polymethylsiloxanes or cyclomethylsiloxanes.
In addition, auxiliaries and additives customary in cosmetic and
pharmaceutical applications and known to the person skilled in the art can
be used. These include, for example, co-emulsifiers, consistency
regulators, thickeners, waxes, UV photoprotective filters, antioxidants,
hydrotropes, deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients, insect
repellents, self-tanning agents, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and
biogenic active ingredients.
Besides the polyglycerol esters according to the present invention,
additional emulsifiers or surfactants can also be used. These are
preferably nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.
In particular, the polyglycerol esters according to the present invention
can be used in W/O emulsions, which can additionally also comprise
dispersed solids, for keeping the overall viscosity of the preparation as
low as possible.
Non-ionogenic emulsifiers or surfactants which may be co-used are
compounds from at least one of the following groups:
addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol
of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
onto fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having
8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group
C.sub.12/18-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1
to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto glycerol
glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated
and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide
addition products thereof
alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl
radical and ethylene oxide addition products thereof
addition products of from 2 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil
and/or hydrogenated castor oil
partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated
C.sub.6-22-fatty acids, ricinoleic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid and
glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols
(e.g., sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g., methyl glucoside, butyl
glucoside, lauryl glucoside), and polyglucosides (e.g., cellulose).
Here, the use of partial esters of glycerol and of polyglycerol is
preferred. These are, for example, glycerol oleate, glycerol isostearate,
polyglycerol isostearates, polyglycerol oleates, polyglycerol
polyricinoleates, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates or distearoyl
polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (ISOLAN.RTM. PDI, Degussa). Particularly
in combination with distearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (ISOLAN.RTM.
PDI, Degussa), the polyglycerol partial esters according to the present
invention can be used, depending on the mixing ratio of these two types of
emulsifier, such that it is possible to obtain either low-viscosity
water-in-oil lotions, or rich water-in-oil creams.
mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates, and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG alkyl
phosphates and salts thereof
polysiloxane-polyether copolymers (dimethicone copolyols), such as, for
example, PEG/PPG-20/6 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-20/20
dimethicone, PEG-12 or PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 or 14/12 or 20/20
or 18/18 or 17/18 or 15/15. Of particular suitability here are products
such as bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone (with cyclopentasiloxane: ABIL.RTM.
EM 97 (Degussa)) or PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone (with caprylic/capric
triglycerides: ABIL.RTM. Care 85 (Degussa))
polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives,
such as, for example, lauryl or cetyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular
cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (ABIL.RTM. EM 90 (Degussa))
mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty
alcohol according to DE-11 65 574 and/or mixed esters of fatty acids
having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglucose and polyols, preferably
glycerol or polyglycerol.
It is also possible to additionally use anionic emulsifiers or
surfactants.
These contain solubilizing anionic groups, such as, for example, a
carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group and a lipophilic
radical. Skin-compatible anionic surfactants are known to the person
skilled in the art in large numbers and are commercially available. These
are, in particular, alkyl sulfates or alkyl phosphates in the form of
their alkali metal, ammonium or alkali ammonium salts, alkyl ether
sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl sarcosinates, and sulfosuccinates
and acyl glutamates in the form of their alkali metal or ammonium salts.
Cationic emulsifiers can also be added as surfactants.
As such, it is possible to use, in particular, quaternary ammonium
compounds, such as, alkyltrimethylammonium halides, such as, for example,
cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide or behenyltrimethylammonium
chloride, but also dialkyldimethylammonium halides, such as, for example,
disteraryldimethylammonium chloride. In addition, monoalkylamidoquats,
such as, for example, palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or
corresponding dialkylamidoquats can be used. Furthermore, it is also
possible to use readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, which
are mostly quaternized fatty acid esters based on mono-, di- or
triethanolamine. In addition, alkylguanidinium salts can be added as
cationic emulsifiers.
In addition, it is possible to use amphoteric surfactants, such as, for
example, betaines, amphoacetates or amphopropionates together with the
polyglycerol esters according to the present invention.
In addition, the low-viscosity emulsions according to the present
invention can comprise customary auxiliaries and additives, such as,
thickeners, UV photoprotective filters, antioxidants, hydrotropes,
deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients, insect repellents,
self-tanning agents, perfume oils, dyes and biogenic active ingredients.
Of suitability for thickening oil phases are all thickeners known to the
person skilled in the art. Mention is made here in particular of waxes,
such as, hydrogenated castor wax, beeswax or microwax. In addition,
inorganic thickeners can also be used, such as, silica, alumina or sheet
silicates (e.g., hectorite, laponite, saponite). These inorganic oil phase
thickeners are here preferably hydrophobically modified.
For thickening/stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions prepared by a cold
process, it is possible to use, in particular, aerosils and/or metal salts
of fatty acids, such as, for example, zinc stearate.
UV photoprotective filters are understood as meaning organic substances
which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy
again in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g., heat. UV-B filters may
be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:
3-benzylidenecamphor and derivatives thereof, e.g.,
3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor
4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl
4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl
4-(dimethylamino)benzoate
esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate,
isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene)
esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate,
4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate
derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,
2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone,
2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl
4-methoxybenzalmalonate
triazine derivatives, such as, for example,
2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and
octyltriazone
propane-1,3-diones, such as, for example,
1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.
Water-soluble substances which can be co-used are:
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali metal, alkaline earth
metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts
thereof
sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, preferably
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts
sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as, for example,
4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and
2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Suitable typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of
benzoylmethane, such as, for example,
1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione or
1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B
filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Besides the specified
soluble substances, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose,
namely finely disperse metal oxides or salts, such as, for example,
titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide,
zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The
particles here should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm,
preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
They can have a spherical shape, although it is also possible to use
particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which deviates in
some other way from the spherical configuration. A relatively new class of
photoprotective filters are micronized organic pigments, such as, for
example,
2,2'-methylenebis{6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)ph-
enol} with a particle size of less than 200 nm, which is obtainable, for
example, as 50% strength aqueous dispersion.
Besides the two abovementioned groups of primary photoprotective
substances, it is also possible to use secondary photoprotective agents of
the antioxidant type; these interrupt the photochemical reaction chain
which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical
examples thereof are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and
ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Further suitable UV photoprotective filters can
be found in the overview by P. Finkel in SOFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).
To improve the flow behavior and the application properties, it is also
possible to use hydrotropes, such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl
alcohol, or polyols. Polyols which are suitable here preferably have 2 to
15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are
glycerol
alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene
glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and
polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of from 100 to 1000
Daltons
technical-grade oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation
of from 1.5 to 10, such as, for example, technical-grade diglycerol
mixtures with a diglycerol content of from 40 to 50% by weight
methylol compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane,
trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and
dipentaerythritol
lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in
the alkyl radical, such as, for example, methyl glucoside and butyl
glucoside
sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, sorbitol
or mannitol
sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, glucose or
sucrose
amino sugars, such as, for example, glucamine.
Suitable deodorant active ingredients are, for example, odor concealers,
such as, the customary perfume constituents, odor absorbers, for example,
the sheet silicates described in the patent laid-open specification DE-40
09 347, of these, in particular, montmorillonite, kaolinite, illite,
beidelite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, or smectite, also,
for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid. Antibacterial agents are
likewise suitable for incorporation into the oil-in-water emulsions
according to the invention. Advantageous substances are, for example,
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasan),
1,6-di(4-chlorophenylbiguanido)hexane (chlorhexidine),
3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, oil of cloves,
mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol
(3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), ethylhexyl glyceryl ether,
polyglyceryl-3 caprylate (TEGO.RTM. Cosmo P813, Degussa), and the active
agents described in the patent laid-open specifications DE-198 55 934,
DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-42 29 737,
DE-42 38 081, DE-43 09 372, DE-43 24 219 and EP-666 732. Further customary
antiperspirant active ingredients can likewise be used advantageously in
the preparations according to the present invention, in particular
astringents, for example, basic aluminum chlorides, such as aluminum
chlorohydrate ("ACH") and aluminum zirconium glycine salts ("ZAG").
Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or
Insect Repellent 3535.
Suitable self-tanning agents are, for example, dihydroxyacetone and
erythrulose.
Suitable preservatives which may be used are, for example, mixtures of one
or more alkyl paraben esters with phenoxyethanol. The alkyl paraben esters
are preferably methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben and/or butyl
paraben. Instead of phenoxyethanol it is also possible to use other
alcohols, such as, for example, benzyl alcohol or ethanol. Moreover, it is
also possible to use other customary preservatives, such as, for example,
sorbic acid or benzoic acid, salicylic acid,
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, chloroacetamide, diazolidinylurea, DMDM
hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, sodium hydroxymethyl-glycinate or
the combination chloromethyl-/methylisothiazoline.
Perfume oils which may be mentioned are mixtures of natural and synthetic
fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers (lily, lavender,
rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium,
patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anis, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit
peels (bergamot, lemons, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery,
cardamom, costus, iris, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine,
dwarf-pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum,
opoponax). Animal raw materials are also suitable, such as, for example,
civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of
the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate,
phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate,
dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate,
benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenylglycinate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate,
styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for
example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include for example, the linear
alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,
citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial
and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the ionones, .alpha.-isomethylionone
and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols include anethol, citronellol,
eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol,
and the hydrocarbons include primarily the terpenes and balsams. However,
preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which
together produce a pleasing scent note. Essential oils of low volatility,
which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume
oils, e.g., sage oil, chamomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil,
cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil,
olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preference is
given to using bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol,
phenylethyl alcohol, .alpha.-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl
acetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole,
hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl
glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, .beta.-damascone,
geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, vertofix coeur, iso-E-super,
fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate,
benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat alone or in
mixtures.
Dyes which can be used are the substances which are approved and suitable
for cosmetic purposes, as are listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische
Farbemittel" [Cosmetic colorants] from the Dyes Commission of the German
Research Society, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, p. 81 to 106. These dyes
are usually used in concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based
on the total mixture.
Biogenic active ingredients are understood as meaning, for example,
tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid,
deoxyribonucleic acid, coenzyme A10, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin,
phytantriol, panthenol, AH acids, amino acids, hyaluronic acid, creatine
(and creatine derivatives), guanidine (and guanidine derivatives),
ceramides, phytosphingosine (and phytosphingosine derivatives),
sphingosine (and sphingosine derivatives), pseudoceramides, essential
oils, peptides, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts and vitamin
complexes.
Claim 1 of 9 Claims
1. A polyglycerol partial ester of
polyricinoleic acid and sebacic acid, prepared by esterification of a
polyglycerol mixture with components comprising: (i) at least one
polyricinoleic acid of the general formula 1
-- see Original Patent.
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